By HL Lantani de Forez
I costume and dress in almost every major time period from the SCA. One of my goals in 2020 has been to fully outfit my wardrobe for different time periods. My dual goal, in focusing on accessories, is to improve my tailoring skills. I am entirely self-taught as a costumer, and while I can construct almost anything, I am trying to bring my tailoring and fit skills up to par. As a result, a lot of my focus has gone into making accessories, both to practice hand-sewing and tailoring, and to add polishing touches to my different wardrobes.
Most of these accessories have been cursorily researched, meaning I have used either historic photos and/or well-done research from other historians and/or SCAdian costumers. I do not intend to submit these in A&S competitions. They reflect some of my recent work, and I would appreciate any advice/geeking out with people interested in accessories!
YIS, HL Lantani de Forez
14th Century Underarm Hood: 1360-1380
For this project, I relied almost exclusively upon the excellent guidance of Master Edyth Miller’s research. I was particularly drawn to this style of hood because of the “underarm straps.” I marshal extensively on the heavy field, usually in 14th century men’s clothing. This hood retains ease of movement without flapping in the wind.
I made some modifications. One, for ease of dressing myself, I made the straps loops so I could “shrug” in and out of the hood like a coat. Two, the shape is more rounded in the front vs. “squared” (a not, admittedly, intentional choice on my part).
14th Century Open Hood: 1330
While researching the underarm hood, I fell in love with this early 14th century version of an open hood. Again, many thanks to Master Edyth Miller’s exemplary research on this type of hood. I was particularly captivated by the tippet at the top.
I like that this hood was often layered with veils/braids. I usually do not wearing veils on their own, so having a layering option with this hood appealed to me.
Elizabethan Flat Cap
I’ve slowly been working into later-period costuming (the latest I’d gone is 15th century). This means Elizabethan-era tailoring. I have a few trial doublets, but I wanted to make an Elizabethan flat cap. I don’t like the true flat caps so I wanted more of a gathered top.
I followed a tutorial to rather comical effect- see the mushroom hat of the first photo. The brim was about an inch too big, and the top was, well… a mushroom. Rather than scrapping the project, I rolled the outer brim in and under, and gathered the top into more structured pleats. All in all, I’m pretty happy with how I salvaged it.
I didn’t use much in the way of specific reference images, so this is a very generic “flat cap.”
“Quickie” Slavic Temple Rings
I’ve been fascinated and a bit intimidated to make temple rings to wear with some of my Rus/Slavic clothing. Every time I tried to research it, I quickly got overwhelmed by the options. I was delighted to take an incredibly informative class by Masteritsa Marya Kargashina at an An Tir Collegium. (I took copious notes/photos from that class, but most of my materials are in another state because… pandemic).
While I fully intend to try my hand at making some Novgorod style rings from scratch (my favorite style), I wanted to make a “quickie” pair to help motivate me. The rings here are repurposed earrings, with colored plastic beads replaced with metal rings. I decided to suspend the temple rings by sewing them on to loops, and added some woven trim to suede-feel trim to give the headband some substance. I wear this with a colorful silk veil.
Rus/Birka Style Hat
I’ve wanted to make a conical style Rus/Birka hat for several years. While I know the construction of this hat can be a bit contentious in Viking-age circles, I am convinced by period art and sculpture that some sort of conical hat was common. I leaned heavily on other’s re-creationist’s interpretations for adorning the hat, especially a costuming blog post from Bjorn Saemundarson.
This hat is made of thick, coat-weight wool, lined in heavy linen. When I first constructed it, it didn’t quite stand up-right on its own. I added seam finishes in a heavy wool embroidery thread, and the fur collar has a heavy silk backing. Those two added components strengthened the hat so that it can stand up-right.
- Edyth, Miller. (2016). “Early 14th Century Open Hood.” retrieved from http://edythmiller.blogspot.com/2016/07/project-complete-early-14th-century.html#more.
- Edyth, Miller. (2017). “A 14th Century Square Hood.” retrieved from http://edythmiller.blogspot.com/2017/04/project-fitted-square-hood-with.html#.XwZy0RF7k8p.
- Saemundarson, Bjorn. (2019). “Brynjólfr Hallþórsson’s Rus Hat.” retrieved from https://bjornthisway.wordpress.com/2019/02/21/brynjolfr-hallthorssons-rus-hat/.
- Kargashina, Marya. (2016). “Novgorod Style Temple Rings.” retrieved from https://kargashina.wordpress.com/2016/10/02/novgorod-style-temple-rings/.
- Kargashina, Marya. (2017). “Ways to Wear Temple Rings.” retrieved from https://kargashina.wordpress.com/2017/12/14/ways-to-wear-temple-rings/